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Argentina seems like a country that took a wrong turn at the
Equator. Stroll down Florida Avenue in busy, sophisticated
Buenos Aires and you'll think the city should be in Europe-and
if you stop and ask the residents, they will probably tell
you they think so, too. You will soon discover that Argentina
is a patchwork of immigrants from around the world who have
made their home in South America. Argentina has been called
a nation of Italians who speak Spanish and think they're British.
But venture out into Argentina's countryside and all thoughts
of cosmopolitan city life fall away. You'll be overtaken by
nature: the subtropical lowlands in the north; the monumental
Andes mountains lining the west; the blankets of rich, rolling
soil in the central pampas; and the bleak, windswept steppes
of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. The beauty and variety
will fill you with awe.
Despite the country's hard times, its citizens, especially
the Portenos (as the residents of Buenos Aires are called),
retain a sophisticated flair that belies the economic malaise.
To get a good sense of the soul of Argentina, sit in a Buenos
Aires cafe and absorb the life going on around you. Argentina
reminds us of a beautiful, exiled princess who, although somewhat
down at the heels, still carries herself like royalty.
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When to Go
Climates range from hot and humid in the north
to cold and rainy in the south. In the north of Argentina,
summer days will be in the 90s F/33-37 C and nights
in the 70s F/23-27 C (winter highs in the 60s F/15-22
C and lows in the 40s F/5-10 C). Tierra del Fuego, at
the southern tip of Argentina, is almost always cold
and/or rainy, with summer highs in the 50s-60s F/10-21
C and temperatures well below freezing in the winter.
Generally, the best time to go is October-April (remember
that the seasons are reversed from the Northern Hemisphere).
To lie on the beach, go December-March; to ski, go July-October.
Dos and Don'ts
Do pick up a copy of The Buenos Aires Herald, an English-language
newspaper that has excellent coverage of local and international
news...
Do change Canadian dollars at the Royal Bank of Canada
in Buenos Aires-many other banks won't accept the currency.
Also, don't expect all banks to cash traveler's checks.
We had to cash ours at our hotel and the American Express
office...
Don't be surprised if you have to go to the post office
to mail letters or postcards. You can't just stamp your
missives and drop them in the box. And don't mail things
that really matter-the Argentine postal service is reliably
unreliable...
Don't go to major areas without a hotel reservation,
as bookings in the resort areas are heavy during their
high seasons...
Argentine dual nationals should be aware that they must
use their Argentine passports to depart the country
if they're go to be staying longer than 60 days. Dual
nationals are also subject to military service. Check
for details at an Argentine embassy before traveling...
Don't ask about your change if it's less than 20 centavos
(50 centavos in a taxi). One- and five-cent pieces are
no longer in circulation and change is
not considered important.
Do carry plenty of one- and five-peso notes as few stores
have change for bills over 20 and taxis never have change
for
anything over a ten...
Don't expect to be completely understood if you have
studied the Mexican dialect of Spanish. If you don't
speak Spanish, say
"no hablo castellano," rather than "no
hablo espanol," because Argentines refer to the
language they speak as Castilian, rather than Spanish.
They also speak it with an Italian accent...
Do try the mildly narcotic yerba mate. It's not just
the national drink-it's a cultural ritual as well.
The mate is passed clockwise and shared as a sign of
friendship and acceptance...
Do try to see a polo match. Argentina is known for having
polo players who are among the best in the world.
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