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There is no better place on Earth than Rio during Carnival.
The vibrant parades and more-decoration-than-covering costumes
are enough to wake the dead and get them dancing. But the
more you know of Brazil, the more you'll want to go beyond
that glitter.
Equally enticing are the enormous waterfalls of Iguacu, the
voodoo-infused city of Salvador and the colonial towns of
Ouro Preto and Olinda. If you'd rather explore nature, take
a tour of the Amazon Basin or an excursion to the Pantanal,
one of the best wildlife preserves in South America. If all
you want is sun and sand, you'll find that Rio's Ipanema and
Copacabana are just the beginning-Brazil has thousands of
miles of beautiful beaches. Rio might draw you to Brazil the
first time, but the country's unexplored corners and breadth
of attractions will make you want to go back.
Brazil was a Portuguese colony for more than three centuries,
and evidence of Portuguese culture abounds in everything from
language to food. After declaring its independence in 1822,
Brazil went on to become a kingdom, an empire and finally
a republic in 1889. The country is shared by descendants of
native Indians, European immigrants, Africans slaves, Japanese
farmers and even Confederate refugees from the U.S. Civil
War.
Throughout the last decade, Brazil has suffered from incredible
debt, high inflation, a shaky democracy and even the threat
of secession by the three southernmost states. But Brazil
has always managed to pull through. Today, inflation is at
its lowest point in years, and the country has one of the
most stable democracies on the continent.
Brazil's territory is as varied as its people: dense jungles,
semiarid scrub land, rugged hills, jagged mountains and a
beautiful coastline. Hills and mountains dominate most of
the southern coastline, while jungle covers nearly all of
the northwest and west of the country. The Amazon River cuts
across the entire country from west to east, while most southern
rivers drain to the interior of the country, finally emptying
into the Atlantic between Uruguay and Argentina.
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When to Go
March-November is the driest and best time
to visit; December-February can be rainy and humid.
In southern Brazil, the evenings and winter days can
be fairly cool, and sweaters or light coats are needed.
The Amazon region is always hot and humid, but the best
time to see it is July-August, when it's neither the
peak of the rainy season nor the time when the river
is lowest.
Dos and Don'ts
Don't change all your money at the beginning of your
visit-inflation causes the currency to lose its value
rather quickly...
Don't be surprised if you see people carrying car radios.
Thefts from cars are commonplace, so Brazilians take
their tape decks with them...
Do remember that the language of Brazil is Portuguese,
not Spanish. Do learn at least a few words of Portuguese.
Your efforts will be appreciated-you'll find that many
Brazilians will go far out of their way to help you.
Say oi (sounds like boy without the b) for "hello"
and tchau (chow) for "goodbye." Por favor
is "please" and onde e (ON-gi eh) is "where
is." Men and women say "thank you" differently:
He says obrigado (oh-bree-GAH-doh) and she says obrigada
(oh-bree-GAH-dah). Praca (PRAH-sah) means "square,"
igreja (ee-GRAY-zhah) is "church," rua (HOO-ah)
is "street," estacao (ay-stah-SOW, rhymes
with cow) is "station" and avenida (ah-vay-NEE-dah)
is "avenue." And a note on pronunciation:
C with the cedilla (the little tail) is pronounced "S"
and "CH " is always pronounced "SH"...
Do try to see a soccer game. It's quite a spectacle,
with flags waving and tens of thousands dancing, cheering
and singing. Brazilians consider themselves the best
players in the world (they won the World's Cup in 1994)
and take the sport very seriously...
Don't expect to find all of Brazil's beaches swarming
with topless bathers. Even Rio's famous beaches are
a bit staid in this respect. If this is important to
you, plan time on the sand near Buzios...
Do expect many hotels to include breakfast at no additional
charge...
Do carry your passport (or a photocopy) when shopping
as proof of citizenship and identification...
Do retain the immigration permit you receive on arrival;
if you've lost it, you may be fined upon departure...
Do be careful when crossing streets. At intersections,
Brazilian drivers seem to regard a yellow signal after
a red light as an indication that cross traffic can
begin to go. But they also seem to think a red light
means that only five seconds of right-of-way remain,
making for an exciting 10-15 second overlap. In general,
traffic is chaotic and fast...
Do make sure your hotel is insured against theft, especially
if you are keeping valuables in their safe...
Do dress modestly (no shorts or tank tops) if visiting
a candomble ceremony in Salvador. Ask permission before
taking photographs and, no matter how infectious the
rhythms, stay off the dance floor-it is a sacred space
reserved only for devotees...
Don't leave your hotel wearing jewelry, not even a watch.
It would make you a target of theives....
Tipping: Tipping is no longer necessary,
as most restaurants will include a 10% gratuity on the
bill. Don't tip taxi drivers, except in Rio, where 10%
is normal. Airport and hotel porters should get the
equivalent of US$0.75 per bag.
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