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Imagine a long, thin slice of California with a patch of the
Sahara desert glued onto the north. Let some of New Zealand's
fjords wash against the south. Press all of this against a
spine of tall, rugged mountains. This would be Chile, which
has some of the world's most varied and dramatic landscapes.
Parts of the country-Tierra del Fuego, for example-feel like
the ends of the earth. Yet Chile is one of the most modern
and convenient travel destinations in South America. In many
places, it has a European feel-along with European prices.
The country's history is as extensive as its coastline is
long. The northern region of Chile formed part of the Incan
empire, and the more southerly regions were originally occupied
by other indigenous tribes. Spanish explorers, conquerors
and settlers arrived in the mid 1530s and began a struggle
with the native residents that was to go on for more than
300 years. When the last Arauca Indians on Chiloe Island surrendered,
the Spanish hold on the land was complete.
By that point, however, the European settlers had already
made substantial moves toward independence from Spain (led
by a hero with the unlikely name of Bernardo O'Higgins). Though
Chile's political history since then has had its ups and downs,
the country has enjoyed constitutional rule and a republican
form of government throughout much of its history.
The War of the Pacific, fought more than a century ago against
Peru and Bolivia, resulted in considerable expansion of the
national territory by adding the mineral-rich Atacama Desert.
The next major rift in the nation's history occurred in 1970
when economic difficulties and political unrest followed the
election of South America's first Marxist president, Salvador
Allende. The tensions culminated in 1973 with the takeover
by a dictatorship-the military junta headed by Gen. Augusto
Pinochet Ugarte.
But Chile's democratic tradition was revived after Pinochet
decisively lost a 1988 plebiscite (he had wanted a confirmation
of his presidential powers until 1997). A presidential election
brought a civilian, Patricio Aylwin, into power, and since
then democracy has continued. Today, Chile is considered politically
stable.
Chile is 2,705 mi/4,329 km long (about the distance in the
U.S. from San Diego, California, to Charleston, South Carolina),
but averages only 100 mi/160 km in width. Desert dominates
the north, tundra the south. The center has many fertile valleys
and lovely scenery. The nation's coastline is indented by
many bays and fjords, while the eastern regions terminate
in the Andes Mountains. Some people associate all of South
America with the Amazon jungle and heat, but there is no jungle
in Chile-in fact, much of the land can be freezing cold.
Chileans are a mix of Spanish, Irish, English, German and
Scottish immigrants and native Indians. Where else but Chile
can you find German immigrants who speak Spanish and revere
a national hero named O'Higgins?
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When to Go
Because of its length, Chile encompasses a
variety of climates (the country contains both arid
deserts and icebergs). There's no one time that's perfect
for every part of the country, but our favorite season
is summer (October-March). In most parts of the country,
it seldom rains, humidity is low, midday temperatures
reach about 90 F/32 C and the nights are cool. The worst
time overall is May-August, when it rains a lot from
Santiago south. It's also colder. A sweater (and, in
the south, a heavy jacket) should be taken no matter
when you go, as nights can be cool-to-cold nearly everywhere.
The best time to visit Easter Island is August-October,
and the worst months are June and July, when it rains,
and December-February, when most tourists go. Temperatures
there average in the 70s-80s F/21-34 C year round.
Dos and Don'ts
Do ride the ascensores (cable cars) of Valparaiso...
Don't be surprised if Chilean Spanish sounds different
from that of many South American countries. It's spoken
very quickly, with a Castilian lisp...
Don't expect to eat dinner until 8:30 pm. As do many
Latins, Chileans tend to eat late...
Don't spend three days in Santiago and think you've
seen Chile. Get out in the countryside a bit...
Do read Charles Darwin's Beagle and about Magellan's
journeys prior to arrival to gain insight into the southern
part of the country...
Do have traditional high tea at Santiago's Hotel Carrera...
Do be careful swimming at the beaches, even in resort
areas. There are strong undertows and few (if any) lifeguards.
Although the beaches are long, clean and wide, the water's
generally too cold for a swim without a wetsuit...
Do visit the home of poet Pablo Neruda at Isla Negra,
located on a beautiful stretch of shoreline south of
Valparaiso. (Though called Isla Negra Spanish for Black
Island, it's not an island at all.) The landscape is
similar to that of northern California in the U.S....
Tipping: Tip 10% in restaurants and
hotels. Do not tip taxi drivers, though you may leave
loose change. Tip bell hops 500 to 1,000 pesos.
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