Americans may be surprised to learn that the Dominican Republic is the second-most-visited destination in the Caribbean. Europeans and Canadians, however, have been arriving in droves to play at the island's luxurious all-inclusive resorts and beautiful white-sand beaches-all at lower prices than they'd find elsewhere in the Caribbean

In the past 10 years, the Dominican Republic has slowly emerged from being an isolated, politically unstable developing country to one with a considerable tourism-supported economy. Roads around the country have been widened and paved, and historic areas in the major cities have been renovated. Construction of new hotels, golf courses and other tourist facilities continues at a rapid pace. This investment is paying off handsomely, and because the country is so large, there's no immediate danger that it will be overrun by tourists or spoiled by development. People considering a visit to the Dominican Republic should also bear in mind that their vacation is likely to include exposure to poverty that is impossible to ignore.

Located on the eastern portion of Hispaniola (the Caribbean's second-largest island, which it shares with Haiti), the country was originally inhabited by the Taino Indians. Then, after Columbus, the colonizers arrived: The French, Spanish, British and Haitians battled for control until 1844, when independence was declared by Juan Pablo Duarte, one of the country's founding fathers. The government remained in turmoil until the dictator Rafael Trujillo took over in 1930-he ruled himself or through surrogates until he was assassinated in 1961. The government is now a representative democracy, but bouts of political instability-usually related to the economy-continue.

When to Go
Our favorite time is November-March, when days are in the 80s F/28-32 C and nights in the 60s F/15-22 C. The rainiest time of the year is May-October, although it generally isn't bad enough to rule out a visit unless a hurricane is predicted. (Hurricanes are possible August-October.) The hillier western area is considerably cooler, requiring a sweater or jacket during the evening. Constant breezes keep the temperature and humidity fairly tolerable.

Dos and Dont's
Do consider staying in small towns instead of resorts. If you never leave the resort areas, you'll meet few residents and miss out on fascinating cultural exchanges...

Do expect to encounter people on the beaches anxious to sell you something. A polite "no thank you" and a firm attitude, however, will put an end to any pestering...

Do ask for a discount when shopping, no matter how upscale the establishment appears...

Do sample Dominicana gasolina, as the locally produced rum is called...

Do take a boat tour of Laguna Gri-Gri, an exotically beautiful swamp that's home to hundreds of tropical and migrant birds...

Don't expect a great sense of urgency from Dominicans-they tend to be relaxed in all things...

Do watch out for armies of incompetent motor-scooter riders...

Don't change much more money than you plan to spend. Only 30 percent of Dominican currency exchanged by visitors can be reexchanged into dollars upon departure (save currency exchange receipts). Avoid changing money on the black market. Absolutel y no more than US$5,000 may be taken out of the country when you leave. Arrests have been made for even small currency-law violations...

Don't expect the whole island to be lush and tropical (it is that way in and around the mountains, however)...

Don't wear beach attire in town-it's considered rude...

Do dance the merengue...

Do keep a flashlight handy. Power failures are common, except at hotels and restaurants that have their own generators. Keep a flashlight handy...

Do expect a 5 percent room service charge and a possible energy charge on top of the 8 percent hotel sales tax....

Tipping: A 10% service charge is normally included in the bill, though an additional tip may be given if the service is very special. Tipping of taxi drivers is not customary.

Public Holidays: 1 Jan (New Year's Day), 21 Jan (Our Lady of Altagracia Day), 26 Jan (Duarte's Birthday), 27 Feb (Independence Day), Good Friday, Easter Monday, 1 May (Labor Day), Ascension Day, 16 Aug (Restoration of the Republic), 24 Sep (Feast of Our Lady of Mercy), 12 Oct (Columbus Day) and 25 Dec (Christmas Day).