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Life in Ecuador exists on two levels: in the dizzying heights
of the Andes, and in the frenetic life on the seashore.
In the mountains, Amerindians wrapped in rough blankets and
wearing fedora hats are dwarfed by
the immensity of their surroundings. On the coast, however,
the air is thick and hot, and life has more of a sense of
pleasure. Stumble down to the beaches near Guayaquil, and
you will find cabanas afloat with music and lively conversation.
The two regions seem to be from different worlds, but Ecuador's
small size means that they are only a few hours apart.
One of the country's biggest attractions lies more than 600
mi/970 km offshore: the Galapagos Islands, a pilgrimage for
anyone curious about the natural sciences. These desolate
islands' diverse animal population was the spark that inspired
Charles Darwin to form his theory of evolution. Whether you're
a working zoologist or a weekend nature lover, you'll enjoy
the island's abundance of marine iguanas, massive tortoises,
sea lions and penguins.
Ecuador's cultural heritage is a source of pride as well.
The nation was part of the Inca empire until it fell to the
Spanish conquistadors in 1534. In that same year, Ruminavi,
the last Inca general, razed Quito to keep it from being captured
by the invaders. Refounded as the colonial capital, Quito
became famous in the 17th and 18th centuries as an art center-there
are no finer examples of Spanish colonial architecture, sculpture
and paintings than those produced in Ecuador at that time.
The entire capital has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site because of its beauty.
Simon Bolivar, South America's Great Liberator, led the fight
that freed Ecuador from the Spanish in the early 19th century.
After unsuccessful federation with Peru, Colombia and Venezuela,
Ecuador began the long, difficult road toward political stability.
During this period, there wasn't much job security in being
leader of Ecuador. In the first 95 years of independence (1822-1917),
Ecuador had 40 presidents, dictators and juntas, and from
1925 to 1948, none of the 22 presidents or chiefs of state
was able to complete his term in office. As the result of
a 1942 war with Peru, Ecuador lost a significant portion of
its Amazon basin territory-a border change that is still resented.
Ecuador, on the western coast of South America, is the fourth-smallest
country on the continent, yet it encompasses four very different
regions: the Oriente (Amazon region-tropical rain forest),
the Costa (rugged shoreline), the Sierra (Andes Mountains
and highland areas) and the Galapagos Islands.
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When to Go
Temperatures are determined more by altitude
than by the calendar. Lightweight clothing can be worn
year round in the Oriente and Costa, and sweaters and
medium-weight jackets should always be brought to the
Sierra. The rainy season runs January-March and affects
the coastal area the most (the highland's wettest month
is April). The best time to visit (though it's still
a trifle rainy in Guayaquil) is March, when it's the
least crowded. The Oriente and Quito remain constant
year round: Quito is always cool, and the Amazon is
always hot and humid. Whenever you visit, it's a good
idea to take a sweater for the cool mornings and evenings.
Dos and Don'ts
Don't be surprised if you see oil rigs in a jungle clearing.
Oil was discovered in the Oriente in 1967 and now accounts
for more than two-thirds of the nation's export earnings.
A good overview of Ecuador's problems with oil development
can be found in Joe Kane's book, Savages...
Do check with rangers before setting up camp in the
Galapagos-many areas are restricted, and it may be required
that you be accompanied by a ranger at all times...
Don't expect it to be hot on the equator. Its high altitude
(13,400 ft/4,100 m) keeps things cool...
Do take all the film you'll need with you, as film is
expensive, and the kind you want may be hard to find
at times...
Do change money at the airport in Quito if you're arriving
at night, on a weekend or a holiday. Aside from the
Colon International Hotel, it is the only place open
outside of normal business hours. Tourist-oriented businesses
will sometimes take U.S. dollars, but generally at unfavorable
rates...
Don't forget there is a 12% tax on domestic flights
and 10% tax on international flights originating in
Ecuador, even if they're purchased abroad...
Do ask for permission first before photographing Amerindians....
Tipping: 10% in restaurants, unless
service is included on the bill (in which case an additional
small amount is appreciated, but not required).
Public Holidays: 1 Jan (New Year's),
Carnival (the Monday and Tuesday before Lent), Good
Friday, 1 May (Labor Day), 24 May (Independence Battle),
10 Aug (Independence Day), 9 Oct (Independence of Guayaquil),
12 Oct (Columbus Day), 2 Nov (All Soul's Day), 3 Nov
(Independence of Cuenca) and 25 Dec (Christmas Day).
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