Whether traveling independently or with a reputable tour company, you'll find one attraction in Guatemala that ranks among the finest in the world: Tikal. Tikal is the greatest of the ruins left by the Maya, whose accomplishments in the fields of medicine, mathematics and astronomy are a source of national pride and universal awe. We rate Tikal as one of the three most impressive ruins in the world (the other two are Machu Picchu in Peru and the Valley of the Kings in Egypt). Frankly, it alone is worth the trip.

The first people to inhabit Guatemala are thought to have arrived around 2500 BC. They eventually gave up hunting, fishing and gathering in favor of growing crops, with corn being the reliable staple that allowed the great civilizations of Mexico and Central America to develop. The Mayan culture, whose area of influence stretched from what is now southern Mexico to Honduras, developed between 1000 and 300 BC and was in existence at the time Europeans arrived. Following the death of Mayan leader Tecun Uman, the Spanish conquered the land in 1524. The nation became independent in 1823 and was officially established as a republic in 1847.

The first people to inhabit Guatemala are thought to have arrived around 2500 BC. They eventually gave up hunting, fishing and gathering in favor of growing crops, with corn being the reliable staple that allowed the great civilizations of Mexico and Central America to develop. The Mayan culture, whose area of influence stretched from what is now southern Mexico to Honduras, developed between 1000 and 300 BC and was in existence at the time Europeans arrived. Following the death of Mayan leader Tecun Uman, the Spanish conquered the land in 1524. The nation became independent in 1823 and was officially established as a republic in 1847.

Travelers Advisory: The U.S. State Department continues to warn U.S. citizens about the possible dangers of travel in Guatemala. However, it should be noted that, even during the civil war, many of the traditional tourist destinations (Tikal, Antigua, Panajachel, Chichicastenango, Quetzaltenango, Rio Dulce, Puerto Barrios, Santo Tomas de Castilla, Puerto Quetzal and many tourist/business sections of Guatemala City) were among the safest areas. (The main threat to tourists was, and continues to be, pickpocketing and purse snatching. Be especially on guard in big-city markets.)

When planning your trip, try to schedule visits so they coincide with as many market days as possible. No trip to Guatemala should last less than one week, and our itinerary plans an eight-day visit. This schedule is somewhat rushed, but it includes most of the country's main attractions. If at all possible, add at least an extra day in the major cities.

When to Go
The best time to visit is November-April (there's less rain than other times). It's always cooler in the mountain areas (usually in the 60s F/15-22 C) and hot and humid in the lowlands. Tikal can be very hot in the summer (in the 90s F/33-37 C and humid), but take a sweater and long-sleeved shirt for the evenings and a jacket for Guatemala City. Also take a collapsible umbrella, especially if you're visiting areas along the Caribbean. In September, when tropical storms move in from the Caribbean, it can rain for days on end. Guatemala's Pacific Coast is always hot and muggy (occasional outbreaks of malaria occur there).

Dos and Don'ts
Do carry your passport at all times. It is against the law not to, and police at roadblocks will ask to see it. Keep it in a safe place, such as in a money belt or in a pouch worn inside your clothing...

Do take the time to visit a highland village. And do visit one of Guatemala's nature reserves, called biotopos...

Don't argue or offer resistance if stopped at a roadblock, whether military or otherwise.

Vehicles that don't stop at roadblocks are often shot at. People who cooperate with armed robbers are usually not harmed...

Don't talk with, photograph or fuss over children outside of major tourist areas. A couple of years ago, several U.S. citizens were attacked out of a belief that they were in the country to steal children for adoption or for the sale of their body parts. These attacks were isolated, but it's best to be aware of the suspicions that local people might have of travelers from the U.S...

Don't expect everyone to speak Spanish. In some valleys, Mayan languages (including Quiche, Kekchi and Cakchiquel) predominate...

Don't count on crossing the border overland into Honduras: Check with your embassy before heading off in that direction...

Do buy something made from the beautiful and colorful fabric woven locally....

What to Buy
The best buys are wood carvings, Indian handicrafts, wool rugs, leather goods and other clothing made of local fabrics (the color, designs, embroidery and weaves are exquisite). If possible, purchase this tipica in the highlands to get authentic, handwoven goods (and to ensure the profits go to the makers). Most of the work sold in the markets of Guatemala City and Antigua is cheaper but mass produced. Jade and silver jewelry is widely available, especially in Antigua. If you're interested in local art, take a look at the paintings of Juan Sisay in Santiago Atitlan.

Potpourri
The quetzal, Guatemala's national bird, is a bright red and green bird that can be seen in the country's disappearing cloud forests. Conservationists are fighting to protect the bird's habitat, and some areas such as the Sierra de las Minas Biosphere Reserve have been set aside to help the survival of this endangered species. If you're a gringo, don't be surprised if Guatemalans mistake you for a Bible-thumping Protestant missionary. These evangelicos from the U.S. have sparked an evangelical movement in this traditionally Catholic nation. The Protestants are staunchly conservative and were progovernment partisans during the war, as opposed to some elements of the Catholic church, which have aligned themselves with the human-rights struggles of the indigenous population. Several tour companies offer spectacular nature tours, including white-water rafting, bird-watching and hiking trips.
An effort is under way to reintroduce the military macaw to the rain forests of Guatemala. A dozen of the army-green birds were raised from eggs in Florida, returned to Guatemala and then released in the jungle near Quezaltenango. Biologists say the longtailed birds are reintegrating into the ecosystem of the country's rain forests. The government has designated portions of Guatemala's jungly Caribbean coast for hotel development, while additional tracts have been set aside for nature preserves. Guatemalans are very proud of their history, especially of the fact that their country was the center of an empire that once encompassed all of Central America.
While it is possible to climb several volcanoes, including Agua, Atitlan, Pacaya, Siete Orejas, Tajumulco and Zunil, we don't currently recommend it. There have been a number of robberies and attacks on tourists in the past few years. If you do decide to go climbing, do so with a guide. The road to Tikal is now paved, making a visit there less of an adventure though no less exciting. On a visit to the magnificent ruins before the road was paved, we boarded the last jeep in a tourist convoy. We felt unhappy to be last, but as the day proceeded, we came to understand our positioning. It was toward the end of the rainy season, and our powerfully built Mayan driver was the only one who could push the other five vehicles out of the mud. The slop was nearly 6 ft/2 m high on the sides of the road, and our vehicles slipped and slid for hours.

Public Holidays: 1 Jan (New Year's Day), Good Friday, Easter Monday, 1 May (Labor Day), 30 Jun (Anniversary of the Revolution), 15 Sep (Independence Day), 20 Oct (Revolution Day), 1 Nov (All Saints' Day) and 25 Dec (Christmas Day). In addition, many towns and villages celebrate local fiestas.