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Peru is where pre-Columbian civilization reached its most
graceful peak. Like the Parthenon in Greece or the Pyramids
of Egypt, the Inca ruins of Peru give an unforgettable glimpse
of the genius of a lost civilization. The Incan city of Machu
Picchu-made of large mortarless stones interlocked like fingers-attests
to the technical and aesthetic mastery of this Amerindian
empire. Its location in the heights of the Andes only deepens
your sense of awe.
Even without the ruins, Peru would be among the most fascinating
destinations in South America, offering tremendous diversity,
fascinating history and spectacular sights. The contrast between
old and new runs throughout the land: Poncho-clad Indians
walk their llamas through modern cities, past Spanish cathedrals
built on the foundations of ancient Incan ruins. Coastal deserts
give way to the towering Andes, which descend into some of
the densest jungle anywhere.
Before the Incan Empire, many civilizations flourished in
Peru. The Moche culture (noted for exceptionally fine pottery),
the Nazca civilization (which made huge drawings in the desert)
and the Chimu Kingdom (large adobe cities) are but three.
It is the Incas, however, whose civilization is best known-their
empire, though short-lived, covered the South American Andes
from modern Colombia to Chile. Their lands were held together
by an extensive network of roads, coursed by imperial messengers
bearing quipus, or knotted-string messages. The empire was
incredibly skillful in its use of dry masonry, irrigation
and terraces.
All that came to an end when, in 1532, the Spanish conquistador
Pizarro arrived with a small but well-armed force, captured
the emperor Atahualpa and began the destruction of a culture.
Today, Peruvians are ambivalent about their past: Pride in
their Spanish and Incan heritage mixes with shame over the
sometimes brutal actions of their forefathers.
After winning independence in 1821, Peru enjoyed a short period
of republican government, followed by nearly 160 years of
"good" dictatorships alternating with corrupt tyrannies,
ineffectual democratic administrations and sheer anarchy.
The last decade has signaled a new stability, but complex
economic and political problems remain, including sporadic
attacks by the remnant forces of Peru's most violent guerrilla
group, the Shining Path.
Physically, Peru is divided into three distinct geographic
regions: the coastal desert, where most of the major cities
are located; the Andean Highlands, where mountain peaks soar
above 20,000 ft/6,000 m and whose population is predominantly
Quechua-speaking Indian; and the largely undeveloped Amazon
jungle, home to Indians, isolated cities and a great number
of bird species. Even though the northern tip of Peru reaches
within a mile/2 km of the Equator, coastal temperatures are
moderated by the Humboldt Current, which rises from Antarctica
and makes for rich offshore fishing as well as frigid swimming
conditions.
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When to Go
There is no one climate in Peru-the deserts,
jungles, mountain villages and coastal cities are each
under the influence of different natural forces. And
there is no one perfect time to see them all, but February
and March are fairly tolerable everywhere. The rainy
season (a misnomer, really-it rarely rains) is June-September
in Lima (humidity can be as high as 98% during this
time) and November-March in the mountains. North and
east highlands are subject to heavy rain from October-April.
Along the Amazon, it's always hot and humid (it is a
jungle, after all). Be sure to take a sweater (or something
heavier) if you're going to Cuzco/Machu Picchu. The
greatest number of foreign tourists visit Peru between
July and September-which is also when Peruvians take
their vacations. It's best to avoid this time if possible,
as prices are high, hotels crowded, etc.
Dos and Don'ts
Don't miss your departure flight because of confusion
over what time it is! In 1993, the government decided
Peru needed only one time zone: National Time (tiempo
nacional). However, in some localities, people are rebelling,
and you'll see many clocks and watches set according
to the old time zones. Take note that airlines run on
National Time...
Don't allow yourself to be easily distracted by the
action around you. Different tactics seem to go in and
out of style among thieves, but their main objective
is to divert your attention-staging a fight or accident,
for example-so they can make their move when you're
focused on something else.
Never carry lots of cash, don't travel alone, don't
wear flashy jewelry, don't leave valuables in plain
sight and don't travel off the beaten track unless you
know it's a safe area. It makes sense to keep most of
your money in a money belt or pouch and, for daily purchases,
have some small denomination bills handy in a wallet
carried in an inside pocket. Keep your bills well organized;
the last thing you want to do is draw attention to yourself
by fussing through a wad of money in a crowded market.
And always keep your eye on your baggage. (In other
words, exercise big-city common sense.) We should mention
that one of our correspondents spent three months in
Peru without any problems-until departure at the airport,
when he set his camera down for a moment. It was a moment
too long...We should also point out that women traveling
alone might do well to join forces with other travelers.
As in many Latin countries, tradition holds that unescorted
women are available and thus become the target of unwanted
attention and actions. The best defense is to ignore
all advances or comments...
Do go to see the sun-worshipping ceremony at the fortresses
of Pucara and Sacsayhuama, if you're in Cuzco in June,
and if you're in Lima in October, attend the October
Bullfighting Festival, which goes on for several weeks...Don't
expect to see the headhunter tribes in resplendent primitive
glory. Though it's now forbidden by law for them to
practice their art, they are well aware of the fascination
their tribes hold for tourists, and visits to Indian
villages have become very commercial. On our last trip,
we came around the bend of a river a little too early
and caught a fellow changing his swimming trunks for
a grass skirt...
Do consult your local camera store about how to take
pictures where there's lots of glare. Also mention that
you'll be at high altitudes, as well as in high humidity.
(Bring along a plastic bag if you're going to the Amazon
region to keep moisture out)...
Don't be surprised by the hostility evinced by local
residents of Sipan. For a time, archaeological digs
and increased government surveillance dried up their
only steady source of income-tomb robbing (as government
research money and funding for security have recently
been curtailed, grave robbing and the destruction of
the nation's architectural heritage have increased alarmingly)...
Don't count on getting hot tap wa
ter, even in hotels that advertise they have it. Electricity,
used to heat water, is sporadic in most medium-sized
and small towns in Peru...
Don't go where the government tells you not to go...We
have heard reports from Lima and Chimbote of corrupt
policemen who plant (and "find") drugs on
tourists, then levy big fines on the spot. While the
practice is by no means common, be cautious....
Tipping: An 18% service charge is
normally included in the bill. An additional 5% tip
is normal. Taxi drivers are not normally given a tip.
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