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History
The original inhabitants of the Guyanese coast were Carib
Indians. Covered by mangroves, the thinly populated, muddy
coastline failed to attract Spaniards in search of gold, though
they made occasional slave raids. Interior tropical forest
peoples such as the Macushi and Tirió also survived
in relative isolation.
The English established sugar and tobacco plantations on
the west bank of the Suriname River around 1650 and founded
the settlement now known as Paramaribo. Two decades later,
the Dutch took possession in one of the silliest property
deals ever transacted, by swapping New Amsterdam (present-day
New York) for the English territory in Suriname. To expand
their plantations, the Dutch imported West African slaves.
From the mid-18th century, escaped slaves formed Maroon (Bush
Negro) settlements in the interior, and retained many African
customs. The abolition of slavery led to labor shortages in
the early 19th century, and indentured laborers were brought
in from the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia), India, China,
Portugal and Lebanon.
Despite limited autonomy, Suriname remained a colony until
1954, when it became a self-governing state; another 20 years
passed before it gained independence. A military coup in 1980
brought Desi Bouterse to power. His brutal regime saw that
all political opponents were murdered and also carried out
a vicious campaign to suppress a rebellion of Bush Negroes.
Posing as a Marxist, Bouterse flirted with Cuba (to the alarm
of the USA and Brazil) and then with Libya (to the alarm of
French Guiana). In 1987 free elections were held and a multiracial
government was formed.
Although Bouterse no longer holds power, he staged another
coup in 1990 and still lingers in the background as the main
opposition leader. Despite leftist rhetoric, Ronald Venetiaan's
coalition government proved amenable to multinationals, such
as Suralco (a subsidiary of Alcoa), which control the country's
lucrative bauxite industry. Venetiaan also granted many gold
and timber concessions, but ultimately was unable to establish
a working majority. In July 1996 Jules Wijdenbosch, from Bouterse's
NDP party, was elected and immediately ended Venetiaan's structural
adjustment programs.
In June 1999 Wijdenbosch called for an early election in
a bid to avoid his removal from office. In response to the
Suriname guilder's plunge from 700 to 2200 to the dollar,
sometimes-violent protests drew as many as 20,000 people.
Elections were originally scheduled for 2001, but Wijdenbosch
bowed out prematurely to his predecessor Ronald Venetiaan,
who was elected for his second tour of duty in August 2000.
Paramaribo
Suriname's capital Paramaribo (often abbreviated to 'Parbo')
is a curious hybrid of northern Europe and tropical America.
Imposing brick buildings overlook grassy squares and wooden
houses crowd narrow streets, but towering palms shade some
areas and mangroves still hug the riverside. Mosques and synagogues
sit side by side, while Javanese vendors peddle satay and
Dutch-speaking Creoles guzzle beer at sidewalk cafés.
Central Paramaribo's focus is the Onafhankelijksplein (Independence
Square), fronting the Presidential Palace. Immediately behind
the palace is the Palmentuin, an attractive park with tall
palms inhabited by tropical birds. To the east is Fort Zeelandia,
a 17-century riverside fortification used for the detention
and torture of political prisoners after the coup of 1980.
The main market is found on the riverside boulevard, Waterkrant,
and ferries for Meerzog, on the other side of the river, leave
from nearby.
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Culture
Suriname's ethnic mix is reflected in the religious
allegiances of its people. The most important Christian
denominations are Roman Catholic and Moravian Brethren,
but many Christian groups also practice traditional
African beliefs such as obeah and winti. About 80% of
the East Indian population are Hindu.
Although Dutch is the official language, the vernacular
Sranan (also known as Surinaams), an English-based creole,
is widely spoken. Hindi, Javanese, Chinese, Djuka and
Saramaccan (both English-based creoles) and various
Amerindian languages are also spoken.
The development of a strong national arts scene has
been hampered by the fact that many of the country's
intelligentsia live abroad (mostly in the Netherlands),
partly because of greater economic opportunities and
partly because of military repression. However, gamelan
offers an insight into the cultural life of the Indonesian
community; sculpture and carvings express the values
of the Amerindian and Bush Negro populations.
Suriname's food is an exotic mix of East Indian, Indian,
Creole and Chinese cuisines; the cheapest eateries are
warungs, Javanese food stalls serving fried noodle and
rice dishes.
Environment
Suriname lies on the northern coast of South America,
squeezed in between Guyana and French Guiana to the
west and east, and Brazil to the south. The majority
of Surinamese inhabit the Atlantic coast, where most
of the country's few roads are located. The densely
forested interior is accessible only by air or via the
north-south rivers, though rapids limit the navigability
of most rivers.
Temperature and humidity are high. The major rainy season
is from April to July, with a shorter one in December
and January.
When to Go
Suriname's dry seasons, from early February to late
April and from mid-August to early December, are the
best times for a visit. From March to July, several
species of sea turtles come ashore to nest at Wia Wia
and Galibi reserves.
Events
The Hindu New Year's festival, Holi Phagwah, is held
in March or April, while the Muslim holiday Id ul fitr
celebrates the end of fasting at Ramadan.
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