The yachting crowd goes to the British Virgins for a reason: The islands are surrounded by some of the best sailing waters in the world. Sailors enjoy steady trade winds, short distances between islands,

beautiful views and many sheltered coves to drop anchor in. Those who go ashore will find small towns, luxurious accommodations and gourmet dining. For many, it's the perfect island getaway.

But, as with most things perfect and luxurious, the British Virgin Islands don't come cheap: The islands' emphasis on small, upscale resorts and their desire to appeal to well-heeled boaters results in a relatively pricey paradise with an exclusive atmosphere. Though some cruise ships dock in the islands, there is nothing remotely like the large-scale tourism that takes place just a short distance away on St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

As a result, the pace is slow and restorative, perfect for visitors who want to sail, snorkel, dive, relax and enjoy the scenery. And there's a lot of beautiful scenery to enjoy: The panorama includes white crescent beaches nestled at the bottom of steep, green mountains and stunning vistas of neighboring islands from lofty lookouts.

Watergoing vessels have long been important to these islands. The original inhabitants-Ciboney, Arawak and Carib Indians-moved among the islands in their oceangoing craft. In 1493, several larger boats arrived, commanded by an Italian explorer in the service of Spain: Christopher Columbus. Shortly thereafter, pirate ships became fond of the islands, drawn by the same secluded coves that today harbor pleasure craft. They continued to make use of them even after Dutch farmers settled on the island in the mid 1600s.

The British gained control in 1672. They built sugar, cotton and indigo plantations on several of the islands and imported slaves. After slavery was abolished in 1834, the plantation economy ended. The islands were inhabited largely by former slaves and their descendants until the 1960s, when Laurence Rockefeller's elegant resort on Virgin Gorda, Little Dix Bay, kickstarted the travel industry. The Cary family started their charter yacht company, The Moorings, on Tortola a few years later. Now tourism is the mainstay of the country's economy, although there is a burgeoning banking industry as well.

Geographically, the British Virgin Islands are made up of approximately 60 isles. Some are mere specks, with only 16 or so being inhabited. They lie on both sides of Sir Francis Drake Channel, about 60 mi/100 km east of Puerto Rico and immediately east of the U.S. Virgin Islands. All of the islands are volcanic in origin with the exception of Anegada, which is a limestone and coral atoll. Most are covered with lush forests and most are surrounded by coral reefs.

When to Go
Beautiful weather has always greeted our stays in the British Virgin Islands. The average day temperature is in the 80s F/28-32 C, and the night range is usually in the 70s F/20-27 C. The hottest months are August and September, when the day temperatures can average in the 90s F/32-38 C. There is more rain during the fall than at other times, but most rain, no matter what time of year, is confined to brief, intense showers. June through November is officially the hurricane season, though it's usually still a fine time to go (if you're worried that a hurricane might come through, get trip-cancellation insurance that covers inclement weather). Winter is about 5 F/3 C cooler than the rest of the year, and it's a good idea to take a sweater for the evenings any time you visit: Trade winds blow continuously.

Dos and Dont's
Don't plan on visiting the British Virgin Islands if you're a Rastafarian or a "hippie": Both are prohibited from entry by the Immigration and Passport Order of 1980...

Do not forget to take along insect repellent-the local mosquitoes appear late in the afternoon and are voracious...

Do be careful when driving (especially if you are not used to driving on the left). You can always let a cabdriver take you around-most of them are happy to give island tours on the spur of the moment...

Don't be overly concerned about crime, which is rare, but do use common sense. If you leave your camera unattended on the beach, it may not be there when you get back...

Don't swim in the nude (it's illegal)...

Do take along a sport jacket if you are staying in one of the more deluxe properties...

Don't take along a gun or speargun-you're not allowed to spearfish or hunt.

Don't take your clubs, either-there are no golf courses on the islands.

Do take your tennis racquet, especially if you're staying at one of the deluxe
resorts, and do take along a set of darts, if you have them: Nearly every pub has a dartboard...

Don't break any coral off the reefs. It damages the reef, and it's illegal to take it home with you (when you see how beautiful the reefs are, you'll understand why). And don't plan on diving for living shells. That's illegal, too...

Do be respectful of local customs and wear long shorts (or casual dresses for women) when traveling about the island. As elsewhere in the Caribbean, it is appreciated if visitors don't wear swimsuits or go bare-chested when away from beach or pool areas. In Road Town, the capital, men go to work in suits and women wear heels....

Tipping: Tip 15% if a service charge has not already been included in hotel and restaurant bills. Tip taxi drivers 15% as well.

Public Holidays: 1 Jan, second Monday in March (Commonwealth Day), Good Friday, Easter Monday, Whitmonday, second Saturday in June (the Queen's birthday), 1 Jul (Territory Day), 21 Oct (St. Ursula's Day), 14 Nov (Prince Charles' birthday), 25 Dec (Christmas Day) and 26 Dec (Boxing Day).