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Never been to the West Indies? Not sure what you're after? The U.S. Virgin Islands is the closest thing to a Caribbean sampler that we've come across, providing several different island experiences in one territory.

For bustling beaches, nightlife and, especially, shopping, look to St. Thomas. Its heavy development, North American atmosphere and throngs of cruise-ship visitors make it the least distinctive of the islands, but also the most visited. This is high-volume tourism, among the highest in the Caribbean.

For unspoiled scenery and quiet surroundings, head to St. John, a federally protected isle that is so far from developed it's like St. Thomas' alter ego. The coral reefs, hiking trails and small resorts on St. John have been a model for other ecotourism efforts in the West Indies.

Those looking for something in between St. Thomas and St. John will enjoy St. Croix, which is perhaps the most typical of other Caribbean islands. It has a fair amount of shopping and other attractions, but balances them with a relaxed atmosphere and historic architecture.

While it's possible to spend all of your time on one island, we suggest you take advantage of the variety. Good ferry and plane connections make it relatively easy to hop between the three islands and discover which experiences most appeal to you.

Diversity is nothing new in this part of the Caribbean. Over the past 500 years, the islands that now make up the U.S. Virgin Islands have been inhabited by Carib Indians and settlers from nearly every country in Western Europe. Columbus was the first European to arrive, claiming the islands for Spain in 1493. However, they went unsettled until the early 1600s, when the Dutch and English gained a foothold. Over the next century, possession passed to France, Spain and Denmark. (Even the Knights of Malta, the military and religious order founded in the Middle Ages, controlled the islands for a time.) The Danes took over in the mid 1700s and more or less retained control until the early 1900s, though the islands were occupied by the British on two occasions. Under their various rulers, the Virgin Islands consisted of agricultural plantations that were powered by slave labor until a rebellion on St. Croix helped bring an end to the practice in the mid 1800s.

In 1917, the United States, fearful of German expansion and eager for a naval base to help protect the Panama Canal, bought the islands from Denmark for $25 million. The territory experienced economic hardship until the early 1960s, when tourism became lucrative. In the past decade, hurricanes have played havoc with the U.S. Virgins: Hurricane Hugo struck a direct hit on St. Croix in 1989, leaving some 22,000 people homeless. Hurricane Marilyn caused widespread damage on St. Thomas in 1995, including the destruction of many resort hotels, and Hurricane Bertha struck the island in 1996, though it didn't prove as damaging as the earlier storms.

Note: After some highly publicized incidents in 1994, the U.S. Virgin Islands have taken measures to combat crime. The islands present no special dangers, compared with most other Caribbean destinations, but you should exercise common sense, especially on the more heavily populated islands of St. Thomas and St. Croix: Avoid deserted areas after dark, be wary of pickpockets in crowded surroundings, and if you have a car, don't leave valuables in plain view.


 
 
Caribbean
 


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When to Go
The weather is both beautiful and beautifully consistent year round. Temperatures are generally in the 80s F/27-33 C during the day and in the 70s F/21-26 C at night. The winter months are slightly cooler and windier than the summer months. There is more rain in the fall (meaning more frequent short showers). June-November is hurricane season.

Dos and Dont's
Do conserve water-it is a precious resource on the islands...

Don't expect anything to be inexpensive: The cost of living in the U.S. Virgin Islands is one of the highest in the U.S. Do be prepared to pay extra for U.S. newspapers-the freight charges make for hefty price tags. Some local dailies are also available...

Don't walk around in your swimsuit or go shirtless in town-it's considered very rude...

Do snorkel in Francis Bay on St. John if you want to see sea turtles...

Don't leave your valuables unattended on the beach or exposed in the car. You might also opt for lockers if they are available at a beach, as even locked cars that appear empty can be burglarized...

Do watch out for animals and people when driving, especially on curves...

Do take a sport coat with you if you
plan to eat at fine restaurants: Some require them after 6 pm....

Tipping: Tip 15%. (Some establishments may add a service charge to the bill, so ask if you're not sure.)


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